Climbing Mt.Habrich's North-West Route - September 2009

Climbing Mt.Habrich's North-West Route - September, 2009

On Saturday, following an afternoon of climbing at Murrin Park, David and I headed up the forest services road beside the Chief near Squamish. We parked near the locked gate of the deactivated Stawamus/Indian FSR, packed camping and climbing gear into light packs, and headed up the logging road for an hour and half hiking in the dark towards the valley above Shannon Creek. A little nervous after so many cougar attacks this summer, we made lots of noise. The stars were out, the moon was not, but bright headlamps made the going easy. We camped on level ground in the middle of the road between two creek crossings, cooked up an Indian curry dinner, and washed it down with a good bottle of red.

Sunday morning, 6am. After a quick breakfast, we broke camp, and stashed our gear back from the road in the trees. A couple of hours of hiking up double track brought us to the approach trail heading up to the base of Mt. Habrich. The trail was steep and loose, overgrown to the point of being difficult to find, but after a few hours we arrived at the vertical headwall of the southern face of Habrich. We hiked up to the western col, looking out over Mt. Garibaldi. We roped up, and started climbing.

Well, scrambling really. For six or seven pitches, we traversed right, then left, then right again. Mostly we were moving around on tiny blueberry covered dirt ledges stuck very loosely to the rock. There was not much in the way of gear, mostly we slung some tape unconvincingly around the occasional alder bush, and there was rarely a technical move. It was easy to get lost up there. The guidebook we'd read described the route as "nebulous", which I assume is French for rubbish, but we eventually wandered our way to the summit. The crux of the day was finding the rappel station off the summit. After scrambling around on a lot of loose rock, and bush bashing through blueberry and alder to the right and left, we somehow managed to find the top anchor chain bolted to the rock. Five rappels later we were back at the base of the mountain, and hiked our way back out to the car.

While the route we chose was not necessarily to be recommended, there are a number of more solid routes to be done up there, and the views of Sky Pilot, the Tantalus Range, and Black Tusk and Garibaldi are truly amazing. Next time we'll probably take bikes in for a large part of the logging road, and try a less "nebulous" route.

Photos and maps for the trip can be found here.